• Bulgaria
  • 25 Days of Bulgaria

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    “Bulgaria, I reflected as I walked back to the hotel, isn’t a country; it’s a near-death experience” – Bill Bryson, neither here nor there Sofia Our bus lurched into Sofia in a rather dramatic fashion. After meandering out of the scorching heat of a Greek spring we headed north through villages with worn stone cottages […]

  • Greece
  • Let’s play a game

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    Let’s play a game, use your imagination and follow along. You’re cosy in that recliner you love, you know the one. You picked it out together right after you brought your first home. It was after the wedding, of course. But before you started painting the nursery pink and stocking up on tiny socks. It’s […]

  • Bulgaria
  • Everybody has a story

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    An old Arab gentleman ushers a curious volunteer into his tent and gestures with his wiry thin arms to have a seat. Sit, he says with his eyes. The shrapnel wounds down his legs tell more than his words. Min-ga-la-ba she smiles, uh, hello, she corrects herself. But it’s her clear, shining eyes that express […]

  • Greece
  • I didn’t cry

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    I’ve run out of tears for the everyday. For the child tugging on my trousers in need of more things than money can buy, for the desperation in that parents eyes, for the putrid toxicity of people so desperate they are burning their plastic raincoats for firewood. I didn’t even cry in the Macedonian field, […]

  • Greece
  • Where will they go?

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    A little girl scrutinises under a rock with her torch, carefully turning each one over looking for treasures underneath. She reminds me of myself as a child, endlessly fascinated with searching for creatures in the rock pools. Completely oblivious to the fist-fight breaking out nearby, she gently replaces each turned stone as men in orange […]